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Seaming a Turned Hem


A cleaner seam for Turned Hems

While most turned hems are knit in the round or across the full body of the garment so they don’t require seaming, occasionally seaming a turned hem becomes necessary. Rather than sew through the double layer of fabric at the hem – leaving an unsightly raw edge – we suggest you use the following method for a tidier finish.


Step 1

Starting from the underarm – the edge away from the turned hem – join the two pieces with mattress stitch as usual.


Step 2

When you reach the turned hem, continue using mattress stitch to join the two pieces, but do not work through all layers of fabric: work through the outside layer of the turned hem only.


Step 3

When you reach the turning row, turn the garment inside out, revealing the unjoined edges of the inside of the turned hem.


Step 4

Continue using mattress stitch – working through the inside layer of the turned hem only – to join the two pieces.


Step 5

Pull seaming yarn tight and weave in ends to finish the seam.

Choose a color & Try This Technique

Sample shown in Ash + Tar in Shibui Knits Birch + Cima held together; Graphite used for seaming.