Seaming a Turned Hem
A cleaner seam for Turned Hems
While most turned hems are knit in the round or across the full body of the garment so they don’t require seaming, occasionally seaming a turned hem becomes necessary. Rather than sew through the double layer of fabric at the hem – leaving an unsightly raw edge – we suggest you use the following method for a tidier finish.
Starting from the underarm – the edge away from the turned hem – join the two pieces with mattress stitch as usual.
When you reach the turned hem, continue using mattress stitch to join the two pieces, but do not work through all layers of fabric: work through the outside layer of the turned hem only.
When you reach the turning row, turn the garment inside out, revealing the unjoined edges of the inside of the turned hem.
Continue using mattress stitch – working through the inside layer of the turned hem only – to join the two pieces.
Pull seaming yarn tight and weave in ends to finish the seam.
Choose a color & Try This Technique
Sample shown in Ash + Tar in Shibui Knits Cima + Lunar held together; Graphite used for seaming.